Building an Ultra Sport 1000 kit.....need some advice
#1
Building an Ultra Sport 1000 kit.....need some advice
Back in the 90’s (’92-’99) I built and flew fixed wing glow models, taking a break from flying/building during college and early career life. In the last few years I’ve been building and flying electric helis, but the fixed wing bug won’t stop biting. As a kid/teen, I had a bucket list of kits I always wanted to build and fly. 20 years later the landscape has changed significantly and ARFs now rule the roost.
Not long ago I picked up a Great Planes Ultra Sport 1000 kit and intend to build it in the next few months. Right now I’m gathering information as so much has changed since my last build in 1997. Below are some questions I have. Anyone is welcomed to comment, but if anyone has specific advice relating to the US 1000, please share tips/tricks. I intend to build this as a 4-stroke glow model for sport flying – no 3D here – in taildragger configuration with retracts.
GENERAL QUESTIONS:
-What hinges are the best to use? (I used Monokote hinges with good success in the 90’s but never the CA hinges)
-I will build my US 1000 as a taildragger with retracts – which ones have folks used with good luck?
-I will likely run a glow 4-stroke. Either the OS 1.20 Surpass III w/pump or OS 1.55A with a 3 bladed prop. Can anyone comment between two?
BUILD QUESTIONS:
-Do I need to swap the stock balsa main wing spar in the US 1000 kit for a spruce or carbon spar?
-Is there a better aftermarket tailwheel assembly to use instead of what is included in the kit?
-I’ve heard that when building as a taildragger with retracts, the retracts need to be moved out one rib space – true or false?
-Are adding flaps worth it? From what I’ve seen, this plane slows nicely.
Any other advice or wisdom would be appreciated!
Not long ago I picked up a Great Planes Ultra Sport 1000 kit and intend to build it in the next few months. Right now I’m gathering information as so much has changed since my last build in 1997. Below are some questions I have. Anyone is welcomed to comment, but if anyone has specific advice relating to the US 1000, please share tips/tricks. I intend to build this as a 4-stroke glow model for sport flying – no 3D here – in taildragger configuration with retracts.
GENERAL QUESTIONS:
-What hinges are the best to use? (I used Monokote hinges with good success in the 90’s but never the CA hinges)
-I will build my US 1000 as a taildragger with retracts – which ones have folks used with good luck?
-I will likely run a glow 4-stroke. Either the OS 1.20 Surpass III w/pump or OS 1.55A with a 3 bladed prop. Can anyone comment between two?
BUILD QUESTIONS:
-Do I need to swap the stock balsa main wing spar in the US 1000 kit for a spruce or carbon spar?
-Is there a better aftermarket tailwheel assembly to use instead of what is included in the kit?
-I’ve heard that when building as a taildragger with retracts, the retracts need to be moved out one rib space – true or false?
-Are adding flaps worth it? From what I’ve seen, this plane slows nicely.
Any other advice or wisdom would be appreciated!
#2
Join Date: Apr 2006
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Skeezix4me,
General Answers
- Radio South has the best hinges. They are designed to wick in the CA to make a good strong bond with the wood. I use them almost exclusively except I also pin them just in case. With regards to retracts, it depends if you want mechanical or air. If you want air, Robart or Spring Air are both excellent choices. However, Spring Air retracts have an extra advantage of springing down if you lose air pressure, hence their name. Give Spring Air a call and they can set you up with whichever ones will work best given the weight of the plane. I don't think you'll be happy with the OS120. The Ultrasport 1000 is quite a heavy plane and the 120 might not give you the performance you want even though it is pumped. The OS 155 would be better, but I'm not familiar enough with it to comment. I had an OS-160 2-stroke on mine and it flew it very well. Dumbest thing I ever did was sell it. I really like the sound of a 4-strokes as well. If you already ha.ve the 120 pumper or the OS 155, use it. You can always bump up the nitro content which will help some with the performance. If you don't have either one, I'd suggest getting a Saito 180 for your US 1000, but I would find the largest fuel tank you can fit in the fuse with the big Saito because it is a thirsty little monster. Of course going 2 stroke gas is anther option you may want to consider as well.
Build Answers
All f the Ultrasport kits I've had were built bone stock, so I'd say use what the kit has. Ohio Superstar makes a nice aftermarket tail wheel that won't break the bank or if you want to add some Bling, White Rose Engineering makes some AWESOME carbon fiber tail wheel assemblies and they make aluminum wheels too. Their quality is AWESOME. You may want to consider moving the retracts out one bay on each side. Doing this will afford you the ability to make the landing gear longer giving you more ground clearance meaning you can turn a larger prop which is what a 4-stroke needs. In my opinion flaps are not needed for the Ultrasport, unless you just want to use them for practice on a future plane ( like a warbird)
Advice,
Do a build thread on here with lots of pictures and don't be afraid to ask any question you have. Since this is your first kit in a while, build it per the instructions. There are some other modifications you can do but you will not go wrong if you follow the book. Get yourself some card stock or very heavy paper and trace all of the parts very carefully and label them with the size and material each part is made of. That way you can cut yourself some replacement parts if the unthinkable happens. Last piece of advice. Have fun building your US 1000. It is an AWESOME flying airplane and you will REALLY enjoy flying it.
David
General Answers
- Radio South has the best hinges. They are designed to wick in the CA to make a good strong bond with the wood. I use them almost exclusively except I also pin them just in case. With regards to retracts, it depends if you want mechanical or air. If you want air, Robart or Spring Air are both excellent choices. However, Spring Air retracts have an extra advantage of springing down if you lose air pressure, hence their name. Give Spring Air a call and they can set you up with whichever ones will work best given the weight of the plane. I don't think you'll be happy with the OS120. The Ultrasport 1000 is quite a heavy plane and the 120 might not give you the performance you want even though it is pumped. The OS 155 would be better, but I'm not familiar enough with it to comment. I had an OS-160 2-stroke on mine and it flew it very well. Dumbest thing I ever did was sell it. I really like the sound of a 4-strokes as well. If you already ha.ve the 120 pumper or the OS 155, use it. You can always bump up the nitro content which will help some with the performance. If you don't have either one, I'd suggest getting a Saito 180 for your US 1000, but I would find the largest fuel tank you can fit in the fuse with the big Saito because it is a thirsty little monster. Of course going 2 stroke gas is anther option you may want to consider as well.
Build Answers
All f the Ultrasport kits I've had were built bone stock, so I'd say use what the kit has. Ohio Superstar makes a nice aftermarket tail wheel that won't break the bank or if you want to add some Bling, White Rose Engineering makes some AWESOME carbon fiber tail wheel assemblies and they make aluminum wheels too. Their quality is AWESOME. You may want to consider moving the retracts out one bay on each side. Doing this will afford you the ability to make the landing gear longer giving you more ground clearance meaning you can turn a larger prop which is what a 4-stroke needs. In my opinion flaps are not needed for the Ultrasport, unless you just want to use them for practice on a future plane ( like a warbird)
Advice,
Do a build thread on here with lots of pictures and don't be afraid to ask any question you have. Since this is your first kit in a while, build it per the instructions. There are some other modifications you can do but you will not go wrong if you follow the book. Get yourself some card stock or very heavy paper and trace all of the parts very carefully and label them with the size and material each part is made of. That way you can cut yourself some replacement parts if the unthinkable happens. Last piece of advice. Have fun building your US 1000. It is an AWESOME flying airplane and you will REALLY enjoy flying it.
David
Last edited by hrrcflyer; 04-14-2016 at 04:35 PM. Reason: Made it readable
#3
David,
Thank you very much for the response! As you mentioned, I planned on moving the retracts out one rib as I’ve seen other do. I would like to have mechanical retracts, but haven’t begun the research on them yet.
As I do not have a motor laying around, I do plan on purchasing the OS 1.55A four stroke. Because of ground clearance issues, I was hoping to use a 3 bladed prop – can you make any recommendations?
Also, back when I used to build, Monokote was king for covering. However, there are many more options now, and monokote was impossible to move once in place, and the heat-activated glue contained the color which could smear easily. What coverings are the best these days? I've seen ultracote and orarcover.
Lastly, can you give me some general recommendations for some good servos for this application? I’m used to high voltage heli swash servos with over 200 in-oz of torque which I’m guessing may be overkill for this application.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for the response! As you mentioned, I planned on moving the retracts out one rib as I’ve seen other do. I would like to have mechanical retracts, but haven’t begun the research on them yet.
As I do not have a motor laying around, I do plan on purchasing the OS 1.55A four stroke. Because of ground clearance issues, I was hoping to use a 3 bladed prop – can you make any recommendations?
Also, back when I used to build, Monokote was king for covering. However, there are many more options now, and monokote was impossible to move once in place, and the heat-activated glue contained the color which could smear easily. What coverings are the best these days? I've seen ultracote and orarcover.
Lastly, can you give me some general recommendations for some good servos for this application? I’m used to high voltage heli swash servos with over 200 in-oz of torque which I’m guessing may be overkill for this application.
Thanks!
#4
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Hello Skeezix4me,
I'm afraid you are going to run into the same problem I have. That's trying to find mechanical retracts that are strong enough to hold up to the weight of a plane this size. Most mechanical retracts made these days are only suited for 60 size aircraft. If you find some that are different, please let me know where to get them. I am looking for a set for an older 2 meter pattern plane I have called a Saturn. I bought a set of Supra's from Central Hobbies, but I don't think they will work in my Saturn and it is considerably lighter than a US 1000 is going to be.
Sorry, but I cannot help you with prop recommendations on the OS 1.55 either, as I have never had one.
From what I've read over the last couple of years, the quality of Monocote has gone to crap since you've been away from building. Personally, I have never used anything but Ulltracote so I cannot comment, first hand.
As far as servo's go, anything around 100oz inch should be more than enough for the US 1000.
David
I'm afraid you are going to run into the same problem I have. That's trying to find mechanical retracts that are strong enough to hold up to the weight of a plane this size. Most mechanical retracts made these days are only suited for 60 size aircraft. If you find some that are different, please let me know where to get them. I am looking for a set for an older 2 meter pattern plane I have called a Saturn. I bought a set of Supra's from Central Hobbies, but I don't think they will work in my Saturn and it is considerably lighter than a US 1000 is going to be.
Sorry, but I cannot help you with prop recommendations on the OS 1.55 either, as I have never had one.
From what I've read over the last couple of years, the quality of Monocote has gone to crap since you've been away from building. Personally, I have never used anything but Ulltracote so I cannot comment, first hand.
As far as servo's go, anything around 100oz inch should be more than enough for the US 1000.
David
Last edited by hrrcflyer; 04-20-2016 at 05:56 PM.
#5
I wouldn't use CA hinges on a plane that size. I like Dubro hinges. I've had CA hinges rip in two eventually on 60 size planes. Install with epoxy and pin them for the win.
I wouldn't think it's necessary to swap the balsa spar for spruce. However; try and see if you can find a build thread for this plane and see what others are doing. It will help answer other questions as well.
I wouldn't add flaps if I was already adding retracts if it slows down enough already. No need to add complexity and weight.
I'm not sure what is included in the kit for a tailwheel assembly but there are many aftermarket ones out there. Look around.
carl
I wouldn't think it's necessary to swap the balsa spar for spruce. However; try and see if you can find a build thread for this plane and see what others are doing. It will help answer other questions as well.
I wouldn't add flaps if I was already adding retracts if it slows down enough already. No need to add complexity and weight.
I'm not sure what is included in the kit for a tailwheel assembly but there are many aftermarket ones out there. Look around.
carl
#7
To be honest, I planned on starting the US 1000 build in 2016, but it did not happen. I purchased and began to build a Great Planes Super Skybolt kit, which is still under construction at the moment. The Ultra Sport is still sitting in the box. I have made some decisions about the US 1000 build listed below based on what equipment is available these days. If you are going to build, please post a build thread, and also what equipment you will be using! I will continue to update this thread.
At the moment, I’m planning on doing the following:
-Building kit as a tail dragger with electric retracts: https://robart.com/collections/retra...electric-mains
-Using some HV capable servos so I can run a 2S lipo receiver pack: HS-5495BH HV Digital Karbonite Gear Sport Servo HITEC RCD USA
-O.S. FS-155A for power (possibly with a 3 blade prop if clearance is an issue)
-Moving retracts out one bay in the wing
-Robat pinned hinges for control surfaces
-Hayes/Kraft 16oz fuel tank
-Slimline Excel fueler: https://www.slimlineproducts.com/excel-fueler-s/110.htm
#8
My Feedback: (11)
Oh, I'm building it alright! I have both wings all framed up, all the tail feathers are done, and I've started building the fuse. I'll be bending up some aluminum landing gear with the sweepback in order to get the wheels in the right spot, and to raise the nose up for prop clearance. The engine will be a Super Tigre 3250 with probably a 20 x 10 prop,, and a 3" TruTurn spinner. The wings will have 9" of flaps per side, and will have one servo each. I'm putting a pull/pull rudder control on it, and two elevator servos will be mounted in the tail. I expect to be finished with it in a few weeks.
#14
My Feedback: (11)
Finished! Well, I still need to add a pilot, then glue the canopy on.. It came out at 12 pounds 5 ounces, and balanced exactly at 5 1/4"! I did have to add 3 ounces of lead to the left wingtip though, partly due to big engine being used, and partly due to the fact that when I assembled the wing, I carefully weighed and laid out the ribs without realizing I was building it upside down, so the wrong wing got built heaviest. I made my own main gear, and the tail gear is a carbon fiber unit from a previous plane. The fuselage and tail are all painted with System 3 paint, brushed on with a foam brush, and the wings are covered with ChinaCote, with Monokote accents. the scheme is one I copied from the late MinnFlyer. The engine is a Super Tigre 3250 with an OS D7 carb on it. I hope it flies!
Last edited by RDJeff; 01-06-2018 at 10:17 PM.
#17
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Thanks Vincent, I hope it inspires you to build yours! Good eye on the flaps, and guess what, everything is there for flap installation, all I need to do is cut the covering, saw the aileron, pop in the servos, and add the linkages. I had planned on using them, but changed my mind late in the process, as the field I'll be flying it at is in the middle of a big hay field, with loads of approach area.
#18
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I happened upon this thread. RDJeff your 1000 looks great! I also have a Ultra Sport 1000 kit which I won't be able to get to until I finish thinning out my hanger. I have four planes that I've sold and I have several more I have to sell. Once that is done I should be able to get to the 1000. This build may slip till next winter.
Has anyone put one of the new gassers in a 1000. Something like a NGH 38cc 4-stroke gas engine? With all the new compact gas engines I would think it's a good alternative to glow.
https://www.valleyviewrc.com/ngh-38c...-stroke-engine
Thoughts?
Has anyone put one of the new gassers in a 1000. Something like a NGH 38cc 4-stroke gas engine? With all the new compact gas engines I would think it's a good alternative to glow.
https://www.valleyviewrc.com/ngh-38c...-stroke-engine
Thoughts?