Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more > RC Tanks
Reload this Page >

Super Sherman M4A4 w/HVSS M50

Notices
RC Tanks Discuss all aspects of rc tank building and driving here!

Super Sherman M4A4 w/HVSS M50

Old 04-04-2018, 06:28 AM
  #26  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

Wow a new picture uploader procedure. Ok, well it worked good for the first time. Hooray for the admin!

So after I installed the 3d printed mantlet screwed onto the hengolong Sherman swivel, the whole assembly would move in and out about a 1/16th of an inch. It bothered me and I wasn't sure what to do about it and just carried on. I began test fit my elevation servo and it really was bugging me because the whole gun assembly could go crooked so I devised a screw in tab thrust retainer system to hold the mantlet forward in the new housing. Below are the results of my brackets and the mock up of my servo, I don't have it mounted in place just yet.
Old 04-20-2018, 05:39 AM
  #27  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

So, Im irritated with this new picture uploader they have, its not as good as the last one darn it. If I try to load more than one picture at a time only one gets shown so I have to upload each one by its self. And, for some stupid reason it re orients the picture from how I have it on my pc. This is irritating as I have them rotated on my pc yet they show up here the wrong way. Cant understand that or even fix it. Very frustrating.
Any way, got the servo mount fabed up after 3 different variations were tried for a good fit. Was trying not to block the loaders hatch but in the end it couldn't be helped.
I got the TBU base installed last night but now have to cut away material in the clark recoil that impacts the TBU base. That thing is bulky but it saves a lot of time from making my own trunion and recoil if the tank Im working on is HL or Taigen

Old 04-23-2018, 08:05 PM
  #28  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

Ugh, still the uploader is reorienting my pictures to its own desires..... Well, this shows the area of the clark recoil I had to remove to allow it to clear the Tamiya TBU base installed in the commanders hatch. All seems to work good now. On to other things.


Now this is something that has really bothered me. Look at the orientation of the machine gunners port and the .30cal gun shield. How it is right above the differential cover.
The M4a4 Firefly kit hull has it much higher up. Not just because to make it fit on the Tamiya hull I had to add a strip of plastic across the bottom of the front glacis. The Henglong Sherman has weird metrics on thefront with its obtuse differential cover and out of dimension glacis to mate to it. Always have issues when I adapt HL front parts....
So onward I trudged deciding I could not live with the MG port so high. I decided to cut it out and make my own.








So here I where I stopped for tonight. It was time to go in with the family but after a coupler hour work I have the basic structure and shape in place. Some more putty, rounding and smoothing out of the overall component is needed but I think it will come out looking very well. I have a Tamiya MG appliance sitting in place to show off the appearance.
Unfortunately what this means is that the applique armor plates supplied with the kit will not fit over my fabbed up MG port so I will make a new ones, though I suspect that will be quite easy.
Old 05-03-2018, 08:44 AM
  #29  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

So after lots of sanding and shaping i think i have the MG port looking correct. Im going to leave it like this just make sure its smooth after primering.


Old 05-04-2018, 10:56 AM
  #30  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

I was getting ready to do the inside hull bracing on the sides and the fenders and i realized the damn hull is bowed like its back is broken. Probably was pulled out of the mold too soft and sat down and the rear armor hanging down didnt let the hull sit flat and it bowed. So... i think the fix is to remove the molded bolt strip for the sand shields and then trim the bottom of the hull flush all the way across. This kind of production error really pisses me off.




Old 05-05-2018, 09:02 AM
  #31  
TXtanker
 
TXtanker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I have had luck using steam for smaller parts to bend them back in shape .....just a thought
Old 05-11-2018, 05:19 PM
  #32  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

I finally got the internal hull bracing done. I like to use acrylic on the inside of the urethane hulls I use because they can tend to get soft and warp in the sun. Lots of bracing inside, Im not as worried about this hull as the urethane seems to be more brittle than the stuff nick uses.
Also got my fenders made and installed along with one front fender. The other is half done but I have to finish that side of the hull first. It was warped there and would not square back out even after heating and it broke. I repaired and am just building up the shallow spot and will remake the weld line when finished then install the fender.
I had tested it out on the ibu last week and all tested well. Its coming along nicely.




Old 05-11-2018, 10:19 PM
  #33  
Markocaster
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: East bay CA
Posts: 502
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Nice work Rich!
Old 05-14-2018, 09:55 PM
  #34  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

Got the work inside the hull done. More exterior detailing too.



Old 05-17-2018, 09:27 AM
  #35  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

Got the tank running and drive tested it. For some reason the tamiya sprocket on the right side would bind in one spot with one track link and it would ride up over the sprocket. I fussed with it for a couple hours and could not figure out why the bind was happening and decided to change the sprockets. I had been thinking about using the plain sprockets as the m50s had a mixture of plain and fancy chrystler sorockets. After the change the track ran just fine with no issues. My kid test drove it for me.

Also got abunch more detail work done. Its really looking good now. Though i have the lights and brush guards coming up, i loath that part, especially when i make them from scratch...


Old 05-27-2018, 07:11 AM
  #36  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

I got more detail installed. All the fender brackets and accessories on this side. some on the other side. Kinda tough job since there are few pictures of m4a4 based m50s from the side. The only photo I have of a tank from this side has all the accessories stripped off as it was painted OD with stars but it still had the fender supports so that was how I placed mine on this side. I had to guess on the spare wheels, the rear wheel may be in the wrong spot and I may have to hop it forward over the other one and mount it there and leave the rear spot open.
Overall I have put an enormous amount of time into photo study to do my work and found many m50s varied a bit here and there but followed a common theme, yet measurement of placement wasn't exact across the board as the US would be with this sort of thing.
I kinda suspect most on this forum don't really care about builds or just this type of Sherman as my thread seems to be mostly me just posting updates. I hope Im not wearing people out with the Sherman addiction lol. This is definitely a unique build and it is going along great. My craziest yet for sure from cutting two chassis, making the hull fit right and remaking the MG port and all the 3d printed parts.





Last edited by RichJohnson; 05-27-2018 at 07:19 AM.
Old 05-27-2018, 08:18 AM
  #37  
purplebrad
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: , UT
Posts: 71
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am sure that many of us are enjoying this build, even if we are not commenting
Old 05-27-2018, 09:51 AM
  #38  
Ad Lav
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Looking very smart.

I enjoy a good Sherman as much as the next man.

Keep up the good work!
Old 05-27-2018, 11:32 AM
  #39  
Pcomm1.v2
 
Pcomm1.v2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,079
Received 49 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

Hi Rich,

Really enjoy your rcu highly factual and detailed build posts. Read them all!

Also, enjoy chiding u about your dedication to building various “uninteresting” Sherman Tank Variants. LOL.

Your M-60 order and your cool Abrams build and paint finish means you are clearly not a lost modeler cause, just my opinion though. You may well be...

And thank you for your continued service, sarge, on this Memorial Day Weekend.

John
Old 05-27-2018, 01:45 PM
  #40  
mcovalsk
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 638
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

The Dragon kit, where probably was copied the counterweight for the M-50 turret, is wrong. They just made an approach from the Academy M51, as for the time there was not still good references more than the tank at Latrun. The Robert Manasherob's book shows the right shape based in pictures of the real tank taken during the 6 day war.Check the image I’m uploading I think you still can correct it. Also note that the mantlet is not simetric.By the way great job enlarging the chassis, you do as has to be.

Last edited by mcovalsk; 05-28-2018 at 05:13 AM.
Old 05-27-2018, 11:12 PM
  #41  
tomhugill
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 2,384
Received 23 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

I realised my m50 turret counter weight was wrong quite soon into the build and corrected with putty, not perfect but a lot better than before!

Did you have any references for the external stowage boxes etc being stored over the hull at.our plates? I've not seen that before but would be interested to see it in the flesh as it were. I'm greatly enjoying this build, gives me some ideas for upgrading the turret internals and rotation on mine.
Old 05-28-2018, 07:13 AM
  #42  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default


Yeah, I realized the counterweight on the turret needs more rear shape with this photo. I will do a bit more but its a bit late to make many changes there. I wish I had seen the east coast armory urethane one before I did my build but I was already done with the turret mods when I found his site for detail parts. I may try to add the side slant to the mantlet, not sure. Its not that obvious and will be a lot of work to try and do right. I know there are still details not perfectly correct with this overall build through all the research I have done, much of it cant be helped when you use this chassis and that guys cast hull and that persons designed part and that guys details and that mfrs etc etc. The MG port on the bow is a good example along with the strip I had to add at the bottom of the glacis plate. Its really tough as I spend more time staring at the model with photos and a pencil and ruler than I do actually making or installing parts.

Last edited by RichJohnson; 05-28-2018 at 07:27 AM.
Old 05-28-2018, 07:27 AM
  #43  
mcovalsk
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 638
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I know internet has offered us a lot of good references, some legal, other does not. But from time to time it worths to buy a book.
https://www.amazon.com/Lioness-Lion-.../dp/097746279X
Old 05-28-2018, 07:44 AM
  #44  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

Here are the best photos I have been using that are only M4a4 based M50s. have also referenced some colored drawings but do not use them as factual as a photograph.
I have determined that side stowage and fender supports varied with the m4a4 based models depending on whether they had side applique plates or not. I have various photos of Jaque Littlefield's m4a4 M50 but it does not have plates like my model and those prototypes shown below. Sadly, the only broadside photo I have of the driver side is the OD US remarked tank that has all its IDF stripped off. I used that one to place my fender supports and worked in my accessories around those supports based on poorer photos with less detail.
I an now convinced that I need to move the rear spare tire forward in front of the other one.
I laid out each side independently as the fender supports are not identical on each side. I also did all the placement of details on their own based on fender supports and the added little joe muffler. Amazingly from the top down, my tool boxes line up symmetrically, I find that funny, and very satisfying that I must have done this right since they were done independently.
I found a good source for walk around of a small hatch M4a2 based M50 and I have a walk around of a large hatch M4 hvss M50. I used them for detail shots but not placement or arrangement.





Old 05-29-2018, 06:16 AM
  #45  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

I have most of the detail on the tank now. I need to do some more on the turret. Need the antenna bases and the lift rings and hand rail. Also need to fab the bracket for the spot light.
I noticed ETO Armor still does not have Sherman hull detail sets as I prefer the metal brush guards over plastic since they always break. I wonder if they are out of production or just still out of stock. I really don't want to put the effort into scratch building the front brush guards since I can usually just buy them but, depends on how long they are out of stock. Mostly have to just putty the edges of a lot of the hull details and figure out where the mattock handle and sledge hammer stow. I need to decide if I want to make all the footman loops to tie down the stowage with etc, that takes a lot of time but it looks so cool.






Old 05-29-2018, 07:09 AM
  #46  
TXtanker
 
TXtanker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Cant wait to see it in a coat of paint!
Old 05-31-2018, 07:02 AM
  #47  
mcovalsk
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 638
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Here an interesting picture of a M50 I think base in a M4 short chassis.
Old 05-31-2018, 07:41 AM
  #48  
MAUS45
 
MAUS45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Old Hickory, TN
Posts: 3,194
Received 38 Likes on 35 Posts
Default

Have been following this build as I want to do a Super Sherman. Have been leaning towards the M-51 version, but really appreciate your sharing this build as it has shown me what can be done.
Old 05-31-2018, 07:47 AM
  #49  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

I got some more detail done to the turret and the IR installed. All thats left up here is two little posts infront of the antenna ports.
im still kicking around if i want to mount the spot light permanently or make it removeable, not sure yet.
I plan to put lights in this tank unlike most of my models as i want to have the super bright spot light for night battles.




Thanks mclovask, i do have that photo but its an m4a2 based m50 so I didnt post it here. I did use it for detail assistance but not specificly for arrangement.
Old 05-31-2018, 08:05 AM
  #50  
RichJohnson
Thread Starter
 
RichJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,808
Received 372 Likes on 237 Posts
Default

Maus45, the M51 is quite easy to do accurately with the tamiya kit. The necessary changes are the rear engine deck with a shaleways one, and some other add on details like the stowage box on the rear and spot light and bits from eastcoast armory. The welded hull is accurate as some m51s were built on m4 large hatch hulls but mist were built on m4a1 76w hulls. That would require either a nick aguilar hull or an old mato plastic m4a1 large hatch hull. Both of which would have to be heavily modified for the turret ring equipment as the tamiya m51 turret has a bigger ring than the tamiya m4 105 turret.
I would really like to do one of these builds too, boy do i have a line up in my head lol.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.