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Next
up is the wing. Take the bottom hatch off and then slide
the wing into the cutout and get it centered using using a
yardstick and square. I used a yardstick to make sure
the distance from tip to fuse was the same for the leading
edge and trailing edge on both side of the wing. Be
very careful when putting the wing in the fuse. On mine,
the fit was extremely tight and if you push too hard you can
damage the wing, fuselage, or both.
Take a pencil and trace around the top and bottom of the wing/fuse
joint on both sides of the wing to make the marks of where
we will trim of the covering for a good wood to wood glue
joint when glue the wing in. Slide the wing out and
use your knife to trim away the covering where we marked the
wing. Trim about 1/8 of an inch inside your marks so
you don't have bare wood showing after you glue the wing in.
We are ready to mount the wing now, so mix up your epoxy!
The instructions say to use 30 minute, and I suggest you use
it. You will need time to adjust the wing, and you want
to give it time to soak into the wood. Slide the wing
back into the fuse just up to the bare wood you exposed a
few minutes ago. Spread a thin coat of epoxy
on the bare wood. More is not better here. The
fit is so tight that the extra epoxy will just end up
being squeezed out and you will have a mess! Slide the
wing in the rest of the way and use the same procedure as
above to make sure you have it in the center and square to
the fuse. If you have any extra epoxy running out onto
the fuse or wing use alcohol and clean it off quickly.
Now, I mounted the vertical stabilizer. Locate the piece
and trim away the covering from the bottom of the VStab and
epoxy it in place with 5 minute epoxy.
Next
up I mounted the horizontal stabilizer and elevator.
The elevator is pre-hinged at the factory, which makes attaching
it a snap. Slide it into the HStab and use thin CA to
mount the elevator.
Slide the assembly into the slot in the rear of the fuse and
use a ruler or tape measure to make sure you have equal amounts
on each side of the fuse....in other words, make sure it's
in the center! I also used a square to make sure the
HStab was sitting square to the fuse. Now, take a pencil
and trace a line on the top and bottom along the fuse/stab
joint to make the marks on the HStab that you will use to
trim of the covering.
Pull the stabilizer out of the fuse and trim away the covering
so that you will get a good wood to wood glue joint when we
glue it back into the fuse.
Now,
slide the HStab back in and get it lined up like before, measuring
both sides for equal distance and using a square to get it
squared up with the fuse. When you are happy with the
way it looks use thin CA and wick it into the joints to securely
fasten the HStab to the fuselage.
Next
up are the wing fairings. The manual is wrong here,
so make sure you download the updated version. Hold
the fairing up to the fuse and use a yardstick to line them
up with the HStab. Make sure you get these lined up
perfect with the HStab or you will have an out of trim bird!
We
are now nearing the end of the assembly of the airframe with
only the ailerons and rudder left to attach.
Using your knife, locate the precut slots in the ailerons,
elevator and rudder and cut through the covering to the slots
if needed. This was not necessary on my plane since
all slots were perfectly cut at the factory. Once the
ailerons are on, use thin CA on the hinges to mount them.
Finally, we have the rudder. Trim away the covering
from the elevator area and dry fit the rudder. You might
have to trim away some more wood to get a free moving elevator.
Once you are satisfied that the elevator can move freely at
any rudder position mount the rudder with thin CA on the hinges.
Now, using your knife, trim away the covering from the landing
gear mounting holes, tank mounting holes and throttle servo
mounting holes. Find the aluminum landing gear assembly
bag, take the aluminum gear pieces and mount it to the fuselage.
The next step is to glue in the 2 hardwood throttle servo
mounting rails. I mount these with 5 minute epoxy, then
when the epoxy is dry I fuel proof them with thin CA.
Home
the servo on the rails and mark where to drill some pilot
holes for the screws. If you do not drill pilot holes
you will split the hard wood.
Next up, pull out the bag with the tail wheel assembly.
You should have the wheel, long wire gear, collar and set
screw.
Grab your file and file a small portion of the wire gear flat
for the collar set screw. You want to file the wire
flat so you get a good, firm grip from the set screw.
Now you can mount the wheel. The fuse is supposed to
have a pre-drilled hole for the wire, but the hole in the
fuse of mine was not drilled all the way through. It
was a simple fix of just finding the right bit and finishing
the job for the factory.
Radio
Installation
The
first part of the radio installation is to mount the rudder
and elevator servos in the tail. I used standard sized
servos for all control surfaces and the throttle. For
each servo, I mounted it, then I then took a pushrod and temporarily
attached it to a control horn and set it on the control surface
and lined up the proper position for the control horn and
marked the location on the control surface with a pen.
I then drilled small pilot holes and attached the control
horn.
After the horns are mounted you can center the servos and
mount the pushrods. The wires for the tail servos
run in the cutout in the fuse to the cutout just under the
wing. The throttle servo wire runs through a hole in
the wing bottom just aft of the leading edge. You must
cut this hole yourself. Use a sharp, new blade and be
careful not to crush the wing. The balsa is thin.
Cover the hole and wire with clear packing tape to keep fuel
and oil fro the exhaust out of the wing. Pack the receiver
and battery in foam and fit them in the cutout. The
hatch cover is held on with 2 supplied screws.
Engine Installation
Accel
built this ARF with the very nice feature of built-in right
thrust, so you just need to mark the holes for the motor,
drill the holes and bolt on the engine. The kit supplies
the 4 bolts, washers and lock nuts.
Once the engine is mounted you can find the supplied pushrod
and get it mounted. Next up is the fuel tank.
Unwrap the tank and dump the tubes out of the inside of the
tank. Assemble the stopper and aluminum fuel tubes accordingly
to your need for a 2 or 3 line setup. Since I am running
a 2 stroke, I just used 2 lines (one for the pressure line
from the muffler and one to the carb).
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The
motor for this review was provided by ATS Radio
Control in Hartford, Ohio and they can be reached
at
http://www.atsrcplanes.com/ or by email at Info@atsrcplanes.com
.
The
motor is the recently released Kangke 50 SK.
This motor is well built, light and provides the
extra kick in 40 size 3D planes that many pilots
want. Putting 50 sized motors in 40 sized
planes for 3D flight is not new, but until now,
this practice has been expensive, with 50 sized
motors easily costing $75 to $100 more than a .46.
In my search for a good, cost effective 50 sized
motor I found ATS, and their fantastic support person
Virginia. Virgina has answered all of my emails
promptly, always in the same day, usually within
a few hours, and even after normal business hours,
around 9pm central.
The
motor is well built, and fired up on the first try.
I put a new OS #8 plug in it, primed it with about
6 turns with my thumb over the carb, hooked up the
plug to the power panel and gave it a quick turn
from the starter. Instantly the motor roared
to life and had fantastic throttle response.
Idle to full showed little or no lag right out of
the box. I ran the tank through the motor
and felt it was good enough to start 3Ding on right
away.
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