Contributed by: John Vanderhage | Published: March 2005 | Views: 34936 | Email this Article
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VIDEO 1 of
the Yak55spE
VIDEO 2 of
the Yak55spE
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A fully 3D capable plane, unique Yak55SP looks,
brushless electric motor powered, AND fits back into its box for
travel? A dream? NO! Its here, Extreme Flight RC has done it,
and did it well.
As
most know, the 3D electric freight train has arrived for some
time now, and just keeps evolving more and more. This Yak actually
is designed to come apart quickly and fit into its own travel
case with handle. Amazing, plus, you can purchase just the airframe,
OR the combo deal with brushless motor and gearbox, with prop
and ESC. Then all you need to fly is your own 3s Lipoly battery
pack, 4 Hitec HS55 or equivalent servo's, and a 4-6 channel RX.
Lets get to the model.
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Kit
Name: YAK
55SP-E
Manufacturer: Extreme Flight RC
Price: $89.95(plane only) and $199.95(plane and power system,
Brushless BL-20 motor, 15 amp ESC, gearbox, prop, spinner, removable
landing gear and hardware.
Wing Span: 30.5 inches
Wing Area: 320 sq. inches
Fuse Length: 31.5 inches
Flying Weight: 14-16oz. (review model 11.7oz RTF no battery)
Motor Used: Supplied brushless
Radio: 4+ channel, 4 servo's
Radio Used: JR PCM10X, GWS 6channel RX, (4)Hitec
HS55's for ail, rudd and ele.
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All
in box
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All
out of box
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Once the Yak showed up I couldn't wait to open
up that box and see how it all fits together. I was greeted
with a great covering job, and all the goodies to make a unique
3D flying aircraft. It builds pretty quick (its an ARF) and
looks stunning.

Top
of wing shows aileron servo's
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Bottom
of wing shows
aileron servo's
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Side
view
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Aileron
linkage closeup
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First
you mount the 4 servo's in the wing, splines to the rear, then
the control horns, be sure to mount the correct ones here, If
you put the large ones in you wont be able to get the wing off
or on, so use the smaller two horns. My gripe here was the rods
had a pre-bent z in them for the servo, which is great, BUT
the way it was bent put a lot of pressure on the servo arm,
and it would not come down to the aileron linkage, So I adjusted
the Z bend so they fit and where still tight.
Control
horn in place
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Tabs on bottom of stab
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Control
horn in rudder
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Rudder
mounted
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Now
find the pre-hinged elevator setup and install one of the long
control horns there, and using thin CA on that flip it over
and install two small tabs with holes into the bottom of the
stab. Be sure they are 90 degree's from the stab, these need
to be straight. They will be used to screw it to the fuse. Finally
install remaining long horn onto the rudder, then hinge the
rudder and with thin CA glue it on.
Cutting
out the wing area
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Elevator
cutout
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All
done
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Lay
the fuse down on a flat surface, grab a sharp knife and cut
out the wing and elevator/stab area's. I found it easiest to
cut out one side, then go through that same side to perfectly
cut out the other side. Do lay it onto something you can cut
on though.
Guides
all installed
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Now
is the fun part. Find the vertical pieces in the fuse, then cut
the covering away in little slots to be able to glue in the pushrod
guides. Its a little fiddling, but make sure they are fairly in
line, and straight so the pushrods go smoothly, you can also get
a drill and make the holes the next size larger so there will
be no problems.
Plastic
discs glued on
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NOT
LIKE THIS
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LIKE
THIS!
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Put the wing into the fuse, I used a twist drill for this, but
you need to take a small drill bit and go through the mounting
tabs and drill holes through the fuse. After that glue the little
plastic discs onto the opposite side of the fuse from the wing
mounting tabs. The wing screws will screw into these to hold
the wing on.
Do
the same for the stab, but note! The manual says for the stab
to be all the way back in the slot with enough room for elevator
movement... this will not work as the elevator pushrod was too
short in my kit, so I simply moved the stab far enough forward
I could get the setup to work.
Covering
cut away and wedge in place
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Right
Thrust
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Screws
in place
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Prop
and spinner on
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Grab the fuse again, slit the covering above the area the motor
goes on, then find the little block of balsa, and use some sandpaper
to sand it down to a wedge. After that put a small drop of CA
on the back of the wedge and glue it onto the left side of the
fuse on top of the covering. Install the motor and gearbox,
hold against fuse and drill and install the two screws to hold
it on. Manual says you need about 2 degree's of right thrust,
I eyeballed mine and its pretty close.
Cutting
out the wing area
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Elevator
cutout
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Tailskid
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Use
your razor knife to cut the covering out of the landing gear
slots, put the wire gear in place and put a zip around them
as the manual says. Slide on the wheels and put the keepers
on, the tail skid simply goes into a hole at the back of the
fuse, put a drop of CA on it and your landing gear are done.
They say not to install them if flying from grass, I have
had good luck, but it probably all depends on your mowing
job! My tail skid is loose, but does not fall out, its been
working fine however.
Electronics
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Rudder
control
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Elevator
control
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Aileron
setup
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Finished
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Completed
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Now
its time to solder the ESC to the motor, if you have never
had a brushless motor before, simply solder the 3 wires to
the motor, then when you run the engine if it goes backwards,
simply reverse two of the wires and it will spin the correct
direction.
For
the RX, you cut a hole in the bottom of the wing and put the
RX inside the wing and tape up the hole. If you plan to take
the wing off and on put a short extension on the throttle
to the ESC onto the fuse so you have a good spot to disconnect
the two without having to open up the wing each time.
Finally,
install the pushrods, double check on the elevator and rudder
pushrods that you do not get them mixed up. Make your 90 degree
bend on the control horn end and put the small wood discs
there to hold them on. I put a tiny dab of ca on the ends
of the wires to hold them on. Same goes for ailerons.
That
does it, set your throws, check your CG, charge your batteries!
I put some Velcro under the wing as the plane did not balance
right with the pack in front of the wing. So far I think the
best compromise in stamina and weight is the 850-1050mah lipoly
3 cell packs. Keeps the plane light feeling, and easier to
balance, the 1320's are a fair bit larger and heavier packs.
You
can fit over 7 packs in the large one
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The
Bunkers
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Just
for added safety while storing and charging my lipoly packs,
since I don't have a garage where I am living, I got a couple
Battery Bunkers to put my packs in while storing and charging.
The Lithium packs can literally burn up inside these bunkers
and will not start your house on fire! Now you can sleep easy.
We have all seen what these packs can do. And for the price
can not be beat. Contact Kevin at www.batterybunker.net to
find out more.
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POSING
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The
little Yak flies quite well. I played with battery position,
and ended up going back to the original location in front of
the wing. It was just more predictable there.
With
the cg as setup, it flew well, harriers upright and inverted
were a piece of cake, it has some coupling in knife edge, but
was easily mixed out for ease of mind, but high alpha knife
fly by's are awesome. Rolls were blinding on full throw, so
keep that in mind on maidens! 4 point rolls were also fun and
easy.
The
yak hovers with ease, torque rolls are an easy pace to keep
up with and very predictable, rolling harriers were much easier
with the battery in the stock location as well. The rudder is
very powerful, and flat turns are a lot of fun. Mine felt a
bit on the edge of under-powered, hover pull out is decent on
a fresh charge, but later in the pack, it does not have the
punch I like to have to get out of trouble if something goes
bad.
Flat
spins are as easy as full throttle, full rudder and full or
less of up elevator. Just a tad of aileron and sometimes I got
mine to climb while spinning. Loops and rolls are obviously
possible. The Yak does great walls and parachutes! Very fun!!
All in all its a fun plane, and definitely is different from
all the extra's and edges out there.
Like
to thank Kelvin Buck for helping with the video and pictures.
Lets put it back in the box
Yes,
it fits in there
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Remove
wing and servo
arm screws
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remove
servo arms
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Be
sure to remove
lower screws
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Remove
right side
aileron linkage
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Slide
wing out
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Put
wing in box
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Remove
screws and control horn linkage for elevator and slide out
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Put
elevator in box
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Remove
zip tie and gear
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Put
fuse and gear in box
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Its
as easy as that, if you noticed, my elevator and prop had an issue
with my car, its all in the video. The box you can put your batteries,
or extra tools to assemble, it all fits very well and can be done
in less than 7 minutes.
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The more I flew the yak the more I enjoyed it, if you watched
the video you can see I did a little strength testing landing
(and crashing) on my car. I really was surprised by the amount
of punishment the model could take. A little gripe of mine, is
Id like to have a bit more power for getting out of a bad situation,
its enough to pull out of a hover, but just my personal preference.
Other than that, if your in the market for something different,
this is it.
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Extreme
Flight RC
Phone: 770-887-1794
www.extremflightrc.com

Donalds Hobby
Donald's
Hobby Center, Inc.
1025 S. Collegiate Dr.
Paris, Texas 75460
sales@donalds-hobby.com
Battery
Bunker
www.batterybunker.net
(760)-247-6980
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The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review. |
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