Marutaka/Royal Sr. 60 Scratch Build Thread
#1
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Thread Starter
Marutaka/Royal Sr. 60 Scratch Build Thread
Hi all. My name is Chris, I'm 48, I live in SW FL and was a pipe welder/fabricator/millwright by trade.
This is my first build over 34" ws. My two previous attempts were Guillow's Spitfire and the Corsair as static displays that I never got around to finishing. I was young, 14 or so when I started building. But, hunting, fishing, trapping, cars and girls (not necessarily in that order) had pushed balsa building to the back of my mind for over 3 decades now. I've recently become disabled and I now have an inordinate amount of free time. So, here goes. Let me know if any of this is redundant. I plan on making a build thread here and doing a build video series for YT and IG. These are all firsts for me but with some help from the wife and daughter, I hope to share info that could help some other noob down the road.
I found the plans online Outerzone and studied them for a few hours. Initially, I was concerned about the cowl availability due the original being spun aluminum. But I located one at Fiberglass Specialties.com
It's the correct size, unfortunately it isn't provisioned for cowl flaps. I'm going to make them and they will be functional. Two canopies were bought on eBay and they look they're the correct scale. I just picked up the Saito FA-120R3 on Amazon with a 25% off coupon. Saved some coin there!. I'm looking into Robart retracts. I'm an absolute novice when it comes to electronics so I will be asking a ton of questions. I've had two sets of plans printed at my local print shop. Made my first of hopefully many orders @ National Balsa, it will be here Friday!
Also, I've been hunting on OfferUp and have purchased a little 1/3 HP 4"x36"/6" disc Craftsman belt sander for $20 that needed a capacitor ($8), it now runs perfectly. A Delta 12" bench top drill press for $60 with a broken base. Tried welding the cast iron base with nickel rod but it kept cracking even with preheating and post heating with a laser thermometer. I could have brazed it but I gave up in the interest of my rapidly fading sanity and cut 2 pieces of 5" C channel, welded them together and match drilled the holes. Works perfectly. Then I went and picked up a Dremel scroll saw for $40 with 15 extra blades, pretty sure the guy didn't know what he had because I see them for $100 all the time. So, I now only should need a good little bench top band saw. I'm going to see if I can get all 4 power tools for less than $200. Wish me luck. I have everything else....I think. I will update soon as I have a plethora of questions and ideas... Side note, I'm building a 4'x4' CNC router/laser combo for future builds. Would anyone be interested in seeing a video of that process? It's another first for me as well LOL. Thanks for looking and be well.
This is my first build over 34" ws. My two previous attempts were Guillow's Spitfire and the Corsair as static displays that I never got around to finishing. I was young, 14 or so when I started building. But, hunting, fishing, trapping, cars and girls (not necessarily in that order) had pushed balsa building to the back of my mind for over 3 decades now. I've recently become disabled and I now have an inordinate amount of free time. So, here goes. Let me know if any of this is redundant. I plan on making a build thread here and doing a build video series for YT and IG. These are all firsts for me but with some help from the wife and daughter, I hope to share info that could help some other noob down the road.
I found the plans online Outerzone and studied them for a few hours. Initially, I was concerned about the cowl availability due the original being spun aluminum. But I located one at Fiberglass Specialties.com
It's the correct size, unfortunately it isn't provisioned for cowl flaps. I'm going to make them and they will be functional. Two canopies were bought on eBay and they look they're the correct scale. I just picked up the Saito FA-120R3 on Amazon with a 25% off coupon. Saved some coin there!. I'm looking into Robart retracts. I'm an absolute novice when it comes to electronics so I will be asking a ton of questions. I've had two sets of plans printed at my local print shop. Made my first of hopefully many orders @ National Balsa, it will be here Friday!
Also, I've been hunting on OfferUp and have purchased a little 1/3 HP 4"x36"/6" disc Craftsman belt sander for $20 that needed a capacitor ($8), it now runs perfectly. A Delta 12" bench top drill press for $60 with a broken base. Tried welding the cast iron base with nickel rod but it kept cracking even with preheating and post heating with a laser thermometer. I could have brazed it but I gave up in the interest of my rapidly fading sanity and cut 2 pieces of 5" C channel, welded them together and match drilled the holes. Works perfectly. Then I went and picked up a Dremel scroll saw for $40 with 15 extra blades, pretty sure the guy didn't know what he had because I see them for $100 all the time. So, I now only should need a good little bench top band saw. I'm going to see if I can get all 4 power tools for less than $200. Wish me luck. I have everything else....I think. I will update soon as I have a plethora of questions and ideas... Side note, I'm building a 4'x4' CNC router/laser combo for future builds. Would anyone be interested in seeing a video of that process? It's another first for me as well LOL. Thanks for looking and be well.
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 09-23-2020 at 04:27 AM.
#3
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Thread Starter
But...here's a bit of progress I guess. Never used a scroll saw before. I am surprised how well the parts fit after only the first cut, there's a bit of finite trimming to do on just about all connections but all in all, I'm pleased.
The issue I'm having now is I can't find the material size for the ribs anywhere on the plans. Am I missing something here? It LOOKS like ribs W-1,3 & 6 are 3/16" material and the rest of the ribs are 3/32". I don't want to guess and have bad things happen whilst airborne. I cut the spar slots to fit 3/16 and 3/32 material respectively, but is what I'm thinking 3/16" material really 1/4" and the 3/32" is really 1/8"? I've looked everywhere on the plans and I can't find squat. Any help is always appreciated. Here's a link to the plan file, the DL link is at the bottom of the page, it's a small PDF. https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=4906
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 10-13-2020 at 09:48 AM.
#4
You have the sizes correct. The actual thickness of the ribs are mm sizes that closely correspond to imperial dimensions. The center rib W1A is 3mm but 1/8 can be used. W1, 3 & 6 are 5mm where 3/16 will work. The remaining ribs are 2mm thick where 3/32 can be used. Are you planning on adding flaps?
Last edited by Kelsey_B; 10-15-2020 at 08:18 PM.
#6
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Thread Starter
I'm doing a ton of fitting simply for the fact that I'm hand cutting every piece. So far, it's all fit very well, only had to trim a few small areas. The articulating lighted magnifying lamp I got is worth it's weight in gold when using the scroll saw!
Wondering what you all use for fixturing. As far as leveling and squaring the spars and such. I have a piece of 1/4 plate that's unbelievably super flat. I was thinking about tacking a couple pieces of 3/4x3/4 angle as uprights and clamp to them. Then, I could set the dihedral and square off of that.
Does anyone see anything in the pics that I should do differently? What adhesive should I use on the ribs to spar connection? I did use Bob Smith Industries 30 min epoxy for the wing spar splices. Thanks for any help.
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 11-20-2020 at 09:58 PM.
#7
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I hope it's OK asking questions as I go on this thread because I'm gonna have a few. I'm now working on the ailerons and I'm confused. In the image, the arrow pointing to the left that the words "Cut on this line", to which line is this reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrr rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrre referring? I see dotted lines on the plans for the ailerons also but the line locations don't make sense to me. I cannot figure out where to cut.
#8
Cut at the forward dashed line, and bevel the bottom to the aft dashed line. If you look closely at the aileron cross-section, it shows this bevel.
Your craftsmanship looks really good! I hope this helps.
#9
The aileron has to be cut back all the way to front side of W25. Notice in the aileron construction detail that W25 attaches to the ribs after the cut.
Now the front of the loose aileron has to cut back to make room for the leading edge pc W26. This is also shown in the aileron detail section. The front of the aileron will have an angled cut. The two dashed/hidden lines show where to cut the top and bottom of the aileron to achieve the desired angle before glueing leading edge W26
Now the front of the loose aileron has to cut back to make room for the leading edge pc W26. This is also shown in the aileron detail section. The front of the aileron will have an angled cut. The two dashed/hidden lines show where to cut the top and bottom of the aileron to achieve the desired angle before glueing leading edge W26
#10
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Thank you, I've found having the correct tools is so helpful.
So, I've looked at this detail probably a thousand times and it's just clicked in my thick skull wth I'm supposed to be doing to the leading edge of the aileron .
This is what I've got. The angle looks a bit much and I don't have a part detail for W25. I couldn't find it in any of the plans.
Edit: I fiddled with some profiles but again, I'm building this from scratch and unfortunately, there's info missing on the plans I downloaded, no biggie. It's not a whole lot missing but enough that it's going to take some figuring out and fabricating, which I'm excited to do. The most pressing question atm is what size material is W-26 or is a custom cut piece like a few of the other parts that I do have the info for and have already cut? The homemade cut sheet provided says 1/4" stock for W-26. 1/4" material doesnHowever, I measured W-26 on the plans and going from scale of 1:1, W-26 is 7/16", or 10mm on the plans. That's a significant discrepancy. I ripped a couple small pieces down to 7/16"X 1" ish and attempted to emulate what I see on the exploded view and I gotta say, it looked like poo. I know that just a little here or there can and will make a huge difference, especially when dealing with compound miters. Do any of you have a specific profile that comes to mind that I may want to use?
Thanks for looking and the help. It's greatly appreciated.
Bear with me, that's just a temp piece I whittled down to get a profile. I kinda like it. Is there a tried and true way to install hinges? I have the dubro hinge slotter kit. And what size hinges should I use?
Is the scale off or is it just me??
So, I've looked at this detail probably a thousand times and it's just clicked in my thick skull wth I'm supposed to be doing to the leading edge of the aileron .
This is what I've got. The angle looks a bit much and I don't have a part detail for W25. I couldn't find it in any of the plans.
Edit: I fiddled with some profiles but again, I'm building this from scratch and unfortunately, there's info missing on the plans I downloaded, no biggie. It's not a whole lot missing but enough that it's going to take some figuring out and fabricating, which I'm excited to do. The most pressing question atm is what size material is W-26 or is a custom cut piece like a few of the other parts that I do have the info for and have already cut? The homemade cut sheet provided says 1/4" stock for W-26. 1/4" material doesnHowever, I measured W-26 on the plans and going from scale of 1:1, W-26 is 7/16", or 10mm on the plans. That's a significant discrepancy. I ripped a couple small pieces down to 7/16"X 1" ish and attempted to emulate what I see on the exploded view and I gotta say, it looked like poo. I know that just a little here or there can and will make a huge difference, especially when dealing with compound miters. Do any of you have a specific profile that comes to mind that I may want to use?
Thanks for looking and the help. It's greatly appreciated.
Bear with me, that's just a temp piece I whittled down to get a profile. I kinda like it. Is there a tried and true way to install hinges? I have the dubro hinge slotter kit. And what size hinges should I use?
Is the scale off or is it just me??
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 11-21-2020 at 11:55 PM.
#12
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Thread Starter
#14
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Thank you very much. I still use autocad but I find myself using solidworks more so nowadays. I'm really liking Fusion 360 too.
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 11-22-2020 at 09:25 AM.
#15
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Thread Starter
Making some progress but I ran out of material. More on the way. I think I'm missing a sheet or two from the plans, not sure. Kinda stuck on the rudder and elevator. I have some parts for them but looking at the view on the plans, I see parts depicted in an exploded view that were not on the cut sheet provided and they aren't on the plans as scale replacement templates either. Here's some more pics. What type/size servo(s) for the ailerons and tail feathers? Thanks for looking.
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 11-24-2020 at 12:21 PM.
#17
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Thread Starter
I have the Robart 815RSE's I bought a while ago and now I'm looking at Robart Robo-Struts to compliment the gear fully. The 3/8" looks a tad small https://robart.com/collections/robos...ight-robostrut am I right?
The 7/16" is what my gut tells me is the correct size. Any suggestions on wheels? 4" would be scale but I think 3 1/2" would be better. I don't have enough info to carry on atm. Gonna have to buy the complete set of plans now looks like.
The 7/16" is what my gut tells me is the correct size. Any suggestions on wheels? 4" would be scale but I think 3 1/2" would be better. I don't have enough info to carry on atm. Gonna have to buy the complete set of plans now looks like.
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 11-25-2020 at 10:20 AM.
#20
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Steady progress. This fuse came out just great. As a fabricator myself, I know the primary reason it came out so nice is due to the accuracy of the scale parts on the drawing. I can't sing enough praises for my handy Dremel scroll saw and the magnifying light.
I do have one small issue that I'm prioritizing. Part F14- on the free set of plans, the cut sheet calls for the part to made from 1/8" balsa. However, the former notches are all 3/16", so shouldn't the part be 3/16"?. Kelsey, your drawing says the part is made form 1/4" balsa. Which size do I need to go with?
I do have one small issue that I'm prioritizing. Part F14- on the free set of plans, the cut sheet calls for the part to made from 1/8" balsa. However, the former notches are all 3/16", so shouldn't the part be 3/16"?. Kelsey, your drawing says the part is made form 1/4" balsa. Which size do I need to go with?
Last edited by i.RIDE_H0ndA; 11-27-2020 at 10:24 AM.
#23
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking since I'm such a novice and there's going to be a lot of me asking question after question, maybe this thread would be better suited elsewhere? Just a thought, I don't want to waste anyone's time.
But, I digress. Here's why I'm confused. This is the part from your drawing and I didn't have anything else to do so I fit it in. Had to enlarge the stringer notch in F7, I can always revert to the correct size quite easily. The plans I have says it should be made from 1/8". But, to me, 3/16" seems logical due to the stringer notches being 3/16". Is it really that critical?
But, I digress. Here's why I'm confused. This is the part from your drawing and I didn't have anything else to do so I fit it in. Had to enlarge the stringer notch in F7, I can always revert to the correct size quite easily. The plans I have says it should be made from 1/8". But, to me, 3/16" seems logical due to the stringer notches being 3/16". Is it really that critical?
#25
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Apologies in advance to the OP.
Hi Kelsey, I am from New Zealand and is also wanting to build the Royal Corsair. I downloaded the plans online but found the parts plans are a bit hit and miss.
I have sent you 2 private messages to ask you for your plans if at all possible and are still available. Followed your build thread and read and re-read it almost a hundred times and will be grateful if you can let me have a copy.
Again sorry to the OP for hi jacking your build thread. Your build and parts cutting quality is exceptional good.
Thanks
Chris
Hi Kelsey, I am from New Zealand and is also wanting to build the Royal Corsair. I downloaded the plans online but found the parts plans are a bit hit and miss.
I have sent you 2 private messages to ask you for your plans if at all possible and are still available. Followed your build thread and read and re-read it almost a hundred times and will be grateful if you can let me have a copy.
Again sorry to the OP for hi jacking your build thread. Your build and parts cutting quality is exceptional good.
Thanks
Chris