CARF Ultra Flash Evo build thread +
10-13-2020, 04:46 AM
#28
Those Evo's both look great!!
10-19-2020, 01:36 PM
#29
Thread Starter
I got back on the Evo tonight after catching up on other jobs/work. I like to finish jobs that can be put to one side, so the canopy and fuel tank are two of the most time consuming parts. I’ve started soldering the tank tubes with my favourite Dubro 5/32” barbs and trimming the CARF cockpit tub.
There are moulded lines to follow if you look closely. The back of the seat needs assembling and cutting down to the correct height. Again there is a faint line on one side.
There are moulded lines to follow if you look closely. The back of the seat needs assembling and cutting down to the correct height. Again there is a faint line on one side.
10-20-2020, 11:40 AM
#32
Thread Starter
Blow with my mouth to a few psi, I just put 1.5” of Tygon on one pipe fold the pipe to hold the open end over the other brass pipe. I pressure and then instantly connect the two outlets. I then put the tank to one side. If when I release 24-48hr later it has pressure I’m happy. You could submerge the whole thing but I don’t have a large water filled tank to use here.
10-23-2020, 02:20 PM
#33
10-28-2020, 04:44 AM
#35
Thread Starter
Finally clearing some time to look at the Evo again. The tank still has pressure in it after a week, so that’s ready to fit when the model is complete.
i started trimming the canopy glass last night, you can just about make out the lines. I trim front and back to get it over the frame. Then moving back and forth you will see a pint when the glass is closest to the frame hoop. I then mark with a sharpie the front and back lines-I always look for 3-4mm only at the front and 8-10mm around the rear. The side I want to sit above the corner radius of the frame, placing the glass over the frame as I have the side trimming needs to be approx 3mm above the lower edge all the way along-then you trim over the hook plywood support.
I also started work on the nose unit, the factory leave in links that help keep things square and parallel while the wood sets. I cut these out with a Razor saw, the JP unit fits straight in. Shortening the steering arm allows it to clear the opening at around 54mm side. I used a Permagrit file to square up the nose opening ready for the nose door. Don’t cut the door until the opening is completely parallel.
i started trimming the canopy glass last night, you can just about make out the lines. I trim front and back to get it over the frame. Then moving back and forth you will see a pint when the glass is closest to the frame hoop. I then mark with a sharpie the front and back lines-I always look for 3-4mm only at the front and 8-10mm around the rear. The side I want to sit above the corner radius of the frame, placing the glass over the frame as I have the side trimming needs to be approx 3mm above the lower edge all the way along-then you trim over the hook plywood support.
I also started work on the nose unit, the factory leave in links that help keep things square and parallel while the wood sets. I cut these out with a Razor saw, the JP unit fits straight in. Shortening the steering arm allows it to clear the opening at around 54mm side. I used a Permagrit file to square up the nose opening ready for the nose door. Don’t cut the door until the opening is completely parallel.
11-02-2020, 02:51 PM
#37
Thread Starter
10% slower....I’ll be surprised if it’s that much. I have a friend flying a stock UF with the same JetCat P-130Rx I’m using, so we intend doing back to back flights and we will see. 🙂
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paulhat (11-03-2020)
11-02-2020, 04:52 PM
#38
Dave,
Art Scholl would do his routine with his little dog in the cockpit on his shoulder.... that would be a nice tribute.... LOL I saw him when I was 8-9 yrs old, still remember the dog on his shoulder as he taxi'd by.
Art Scholl would do his routine with his little dog in the cockpit on his shoulder.... that would be a nice tribute.... LOL I saw him when I was 8-9 yrs old, still remember the dog on his shoulder as he taxi'd by.
Last edited by DrScoles; 11-02-2020 at 04:55 PM.
11-03-2020, 01:11 AM
#39
Thread Starter
Unfortunately I have started doing a basic tub using CARF’s parts and a spare pilot bust. With new restrictions coming in this week I might be able to proceed with the build again.
11-10-2020, 02:23 AM
#40
Junior Member
Well successful maiden on the Evo last weekend with only a few clicks of up elevator required.
What a weapon!
Using the same equipment from my previous Ultra Flash (140rxi) I can say she is just as fast, no difference!
I did have an issue with quite a lot of air in the UAT after landing (like 25-30%) which i have never experienced before other than running too low on fuel. All flights had 700-1000ml of fuel still in the tank after landing so not sure what's going on.
I'm using the Cm jets 4lt tank which doesn't have a baffle but still has the brass centre tube set up as my previous UF. I went to install the digitech ultimate fuel clunk prior to maiden, however the diameter is too big to fit in the tank, so just left the 30g brass clunk it came with.
Any ideas?
Should i remove the brass tube?
I do have a spare CARF fuel clunk laying around i could bore out and try? However, they seem quite light.
What a weapon!
Using the same equipment from my previous Ultra Flash (140rxi) I can say she is just as fast, no difference!
I did have an issue with quite a lot of air in the UAT after landing (like 25-30%) which i have never experienced before other than running too low on fuel. All flights had 700-1000ml of fuel still in the tank after landing so not sure what's going on.
I'm using the Cm jets 4lt tank which doesn't have a baffle but still has the brass centre tube set up as my previous UF. I went to install the digitech ultimate fuel clunk prior to maiden, however the diameter is too big to fit in the tank, so just left the 30g brass clunk it came with.
Any ideas?
Should i remove the brass tube?
I do have a spare CARF fuel clunk laying around i could bore out and try? However, they seem quite light.
11-10-2020, 04:42 AM
#42
My Feedback: (64)
Congratulations on the maiden Scott. I am flying the same tank as it came from CM jets with an MAP UAT and have almost no air after landing. Is it possible that the Festo fitting on top of your UAT or the seal behind the Festo is leaking? A friend had an Intairco that always sucked air until he put sealant on the fitting threads....the seal behind the fitting was leaking. Just a thought.
I agree on the weapon thing. I put another handful of flights on my K140 powered Evo this weekend and smile more and more every time I fly it! Goes right where you point it and flies great both fast and slow....lands like a dream. If I ever crash it, I will order another immediately. Fun jet!!
I hope you find your problem, enjoy it!
I agree on the weapon thing. I put another handful of flights on my K140 powered Evo this weekend and smile more and more every time I fly it! Goes right where you point it and flies great both fast and slow....lands like a dream. If I ever crash it, I will order another immediately. Fun jet!!
I hope you find your problem, enjoy it!
11-15-2020, 11:32 AM
#43
Thread Starter
Made some time today to work on the Evo. Cockpit is 95% done, let’s see if I can muster energy to do more.
The wood work has had its 1st cost of Zap finishing resin, a second coat will go on before I spray the inside with a very light coat of grey.
I had kept a set of JR ‘proper’ servos from the last U.K. delivery and although I considered using something else I decided that since I had never built a Flash without JR servos now was not the time to start. So I have run in and set up the arms ready.
I did more work on the nose door. Finished the fuselage opening, notched it for the hinge and then sized the door to suit with no gap. Once the hinge is finished I reduce the door width to my required clearance. I also marked out the NACA ducts and used a Permagrit router to open the fuselage and then various Permagrit files to rough out the shape. Will finish with some 320grit paper tomorrow. I also taped the tail cone in position ready to drill the three fixing holes.
The wood work has had its 1st cost of Zap finishing resin, a second coat will go on before I spray the inside with a very light coat of grey.
I had kept a set of JR ‘proper’ servos from the last U.K. delivery and although I considered using something else I decided that since I had never built a Flash without JR servos now was not the time to start. So I have run in and set up the arms ready.
I did more work on the nose door. Finished the fuselage opening, notched it for the hinge and then sized the door to suit with no gap. Once the hinge is finished I reduce the door width to my required clearance. I also marked out the NACA ducts and used a Permagrit router to open the fuselage and then various Permagrit files to rough out the shape. Will finish with some 320grit paper tomorrow. I also taped the tail cone in position ready to drill the three fixing holes.
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paulhat (11-16-2020)
11-16-2020, 04:15 AM
#44
Has anyone compared the amount of useable fuel in the evo main tank to the standard UF main and wing tank combo?
It would be real interesting to sit both models level and measure how much fuel you can pump out of both.
There must be a few of you that have both and can do this experiment 😀
It would be real interesting to sit both models level and measure how much fuel you can pump out of both.
There must be a few of you that have both and can do this experiment 😀
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skunkwurk (11-16-2020)
11-16-2020, 07:32 AM
#45
Thread Starter
The stock Evo tank is fractionally less total capacity than the fuselage/wing tank combo...but you don’t need to leave as much left without the flat bottom. So useable is just about the same.
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paulhat (11-16-2020)
11-16-2020, 02:13 PM
#46
Thread Starter
Working on the tailpipe tonight. To get the length correct the steel pipe needs to be in the carbon bell mouth the minimum amount. The four holes are approx 69mm apart dividing the circle in 4. Drilling the steel pipe requires a new drill, I used a 1.8mm for the supplied self tapper screws and a wooden dowel I keep that is 40mm in dia is perfect to drill/screw against held in a vice. The screws are cut off after.
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Tom ling (11-17-2020)
11-22-2020, 10:14 AM
#47
Thread Starter
Grabbed some more time today to do the tailplane. Unfortunately the packer at CARF was asleep as there were two ali elevator servo brackets missing. I made two out of some aluminium corner edging from the local DIY shop.
Once mounted the tailplane openings were roughed out with a Permagrit drum in my trusty Dremel before finishing. I always want the elevator servo wires as far away from the tailpipe as possible, so the fuselage seat flange is trimmed, tailplane placed on the fuselage and the position marked. The circles are the rough grommet positions.
Once mounted the tailplane openings were roughed out with a Permagrit drum in my trusty Dremel before finishing. I always want the elevator servo wires as far away from the tailpipe as possible, so the fuselage seat flange is trimmed, tailplane placed on the fuselage and the position marked. The circles are the rough grommet positions.
