Top RC Models MkIV full Composite Spitfire-a game changer
#604
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Burnaby,
BC, CANADA
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Hi All,
I need some help on the installation of the landing gear retracts/struts and wheel cover. I bought a set of Robart electric retracts and struts set for this plane.
Due to the geometry of the landing gear, the wheel and wheel cover would not face the front if I install the strut with the wheel & cover parallel to the wheel well.
If I install the strut with the wheel & cover face the front, the wheel is not parallel to the wheel well when it is retracted. This is ok because the wheel is inside the wheel well. But the wheel cover is not flushed with the bottom of the wing. The leading edge of the cover would tilt up, the trailing edge of the wheel cover would hit the well before the landing gear is fully retract.
Not sure what to do. Some advice with pictures if possible is very appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
I need some help on the installation of the landing gear retracts/struts and wheel cover. I bought a set of Robart electric retracts and struts set for this plane.
Due to the geometry of the landing gear, the wheel and wheel cover would not face the front if I install the strut with the wheel & cover parallel to the wheel well.
If I install the strut with the wheel & cover face the front, the wheel is not parallel to the wheel well when it is retracted. This is ok because the wheel is inside the wheel well. But the wheel cover is not flushed with the bottom of the wing. The leading edge of the cover would tilt up, the trailing edge of the wheel cover would hit the well before the landing gear is fully retract.
Not sure what to do. Some advice with pictures if possible is very appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
#605
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 268
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Hi All,
I need some help on the installation of the landing gear retracts/struts and wheel cover. I bought a set of Robart electric retracts and struts set for this plane.
Due to the geometry of the landing gear, the wheel and wheel cover would not face the front if I install the strut with the wheel & cover parallel to the wheel well.
If I install the strut with the wheel & cover face the front, the wheel is not parallel to the wheel well when it is retracted. This is ok because the wheel is inside the wheel well. But the wheel cover is not flushed with the bottom of the wing. The leading edge of the cover would tilt up, the trailing edge of the wheel cover would hit the well before the landing gear is fully retract.
Not sure what to do. Some advice with pictures if possible is very appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
I need some help on the installation of the landing gear retracts/struts and wheel cover. I bought a set of Robart electric retracts and struts set for this plane.
Due to the geometry of the landing gear, the wheel and wheel cover would not face the front if I install the strut with the wheel & cover parallel to the wheel well.
If I install the strut with the wheel & cover face the front, the wheel is not parallel to the wheel well when it is retracted. This is ok because the wheel is inside the wheel well. But the wheel cover is not flushed with the bottom of the wing. The leading edge of the cover would tilt up, the trailing edge of the wheel cover would hit the well before the landing gear is fully retract.
Not sure what to do. Some advice with pictures if possible is very appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
#606
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Burnaby,
BC, CANADA
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I bought the plane from Tower Hobbies. The instruction manual shows a couple of brackets holding the struts and screw the door to the brackets.
But I cannot find them in the accessories included either with the plane or the retracts combo. I just email Tower to find out.
It seems to me it would not change the way it is. I assume the brackets are fixed in the strut.
But I cannot find them in the accessories included either with the plane or the retracts combo. I just email Tower to find out.
It seems to me it would not change the way it is. I assume the brackets are fixed in the strut.
#608
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 268
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I bought the plane from Tower Hobbies. The instruction manual shows a couple of brackets holding the struts and screw the door to the brackets.
But I cannot find them in the accessories included either with the plane or the retracts combo. I just email Tower to find out.
It seems to me it would not change the way it is. I assume the brackets are fixed in the strut.
But I cannot find them in the accessories included either with the plane or the retracts combo. I just email Tower to find out.
It seems to me it would not change the way it is. I assume the brackets are fixed in the strut.
#610
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 268
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Wheels are tilted in the wells/tilted in relationship to the gear doors, but straight along the longitudinal axis of the plane when the gear is down.
#613
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 51
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Here is what I did with that foam ring. I cut it in half, secured first half to the wood while centering the pushrod, then glued the top half on. At least it keeps it from rubbing on the edges of the hole.
Moving slowly ahead, ready to install the pull-pull tail wheel and rudder, and there are only 6 brass crimp tubes! Need 8 unless I am overlooking something.... It's the littlest things that slow you down. Now to try to find a couple more......
Moving slowly ahead, ready to install the pull-pull tail wheel and rudder, and there are only 6 brass crimp tubes! Need 8 unless I am overlooking something.... It's the littlest things that slow you down. Now to try to find a couple more......
#614
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Corpus Christi,
TX
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brass tubes
Here is what I did with that foam ring. I cut it in half, secured first half to the wood while centering the pushrod, then glued the top half on. At least it keeps it from rubbing on the edges of the hole.
Moving slowly ahead, ready to install the pull-pull tail wheel and rudder, and there are only 6 brass crimp tubes! Need 8 unless I am overlooking something.... It's the littlest things that slow you down. Now to try to find a couple more......
Moving slowly ahead, ready to install the pull-pull tail wheel and rudder, and there are only 6 brass crimp tubes! Need 8 unless I am overlooking something.... It's the littlest things that slow you down. Now to try to find a couple more......
#615
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 268
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Here is what I did with that foam ring. I cut it in half, secured first half to the wood while centering the pushrod, then glued the top half on. At least it keeps it from rubbing on the edges of the hole.
Moving slowly ahead, ready to install the pull-pull tail wheel and rudder, and there are only 6 brass crimp tubes! Need 8 unless I am overlooking something.... It's the littlest things that slow you down. Now to try to find a couple more......
Moving slowly ahead, ready to install the pull-pull tail wheel and rudder, and there are only 6 brass crimp tubes! Need 8 unless I am overlooking something.... It's the littlest things that slow you down. Now to try to find a couple more......
#616
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 51
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Thanks fellas! Tried some butt splices I had laying around, but way too big. Found these on the BigA, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Same ID roughly as the stock so should fill the bill and I can move forward. No rush though, being the dead of winter here...
Cheers!
Same ID roughly as the stock so should fill the bill and I can move forward. No rush though, being the dead of winter here...
Cheers!
#617
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 268
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Thanks fellas! Tried some butt splices I had laying around, but way too big. Found these on the BigA, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Same ID roughly as the stock so should fill the bill and I can move forward. No rush though, being the dead of winter here...
Cheers!
Same ID roughly as the stock so should fill the bill and I can move forward. No rush though, being the dead of winter here...
Cheers!
That works! Don't recall the gauge of my butt splicers, but obviously, needs to be smaller gauge!
#618
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Burnaby,
BC, CANADA
Posts: 49
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Start putting together this plane slowly for electric set up. I was planning to use 12s 5,000mAh battery since nose weight is needed. But the motor box is too small for 2x6s battery side by side.
It seems I have to go 10s and I have an AXI5330/18 motor. Not sure it has enough power to fly this plane with authority.
Can anyone share your power system, size of prop, added nose weight and all up flying weight of the plane?
Thanks.
It seems I have to go 10s and I have an AXI5330/18 motor. Not sure it has enough power to fly this plane with authority.
Can anyone share your power system, size of prop, added nose weight and all up flying weight of the plane?
Thanks.
#619
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 51
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Start putting together this plane slowly for electric set up. I was planning to use 12s 5,000mAh battery since nose weight is needed. But the motor box is too small for 2x6s battery side by side.
It seems I have to go 10s and I have an AXI5330/18 motor. Not sure it has enough power to fly this plane with authority.
Can anyone share your power system, size of prop, added nose weight and all up flying weight of the plane?
Thanks.
It seems I have to go 10s and I have an AXI5330/18 motor. Not sure it has enough power to fly this plane with authority.
Can anyone share your power system, size of prop, added nose weight and all up flying weight of the plane?
Thanks.
I will be (re-) using a power system from a similar Seagull Spitty which I lost. Tacon 160 on 10s with 18x10 prop. Goobs of power on the previous setup, which was even a bit heavier than this will be.
Cheers.
#622
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 51
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Reinforce retract mount?
So when fitting the retract so that there is good clearance of the wheel, I noticed that there is just a little bit of wood between the one hole and the edge. Does anyone think this is a problem? And if so, what could be done to reinforce that small area?
Thx, DSA
Thx, DSA
#624
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Burnaby,
BC, CANADA
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I come to the point installing the exhausts in the cowling. After I put the exhaust pipes through the holes in the cowling at both sides, the cowling cannot be installed properly over the motor mount. I think the exhausts were hitting the motor mount. Or I should remove the fibreglass along the panel lines just cover all the exhaust holes and glue the whole exhaust plate on the cowling?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#625
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
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Yes, I had the same issue. The exhaust does not install well just through the holes. Much better to cut the fiberglass along the lines. It looks more scale as well....but try to do a better job than mine!